I have a few pairs of the Colette patterns Iris Shorts and I kept making them because I altered the pattern for a full tummy making them comfortable and a quick sew. I will say that the front pocket placement isn’t the most flattering for anyone with a bit of a full tummy or post baby pouch. To that end I have sewn a pair sans pockets, but once you’ve had pockets it’s hard to go without. This was a stash busting mission, I was hoping to get a handle on the fabric and notion horde by slowly sewing thru it. Many decisions were made based on materials at hand. The pockets were lined with left over white voile from a white linen version of the same pattern I made and the zipper color and an iron snafu helped me decide to dye the finished shorts in indigo.
For the full tummy adjustment I did a bit of a slash and spread to the center front piece, just a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch or so at the largest. Just to get a bit of extra ease at the fullest part of my tummy. I used my trusty but dated (there were only five pages on pants alterations!) Vogue Sewing Book and used the concept of a full bust adjustment.
I also added to the length on the front and back pieces because I like a little longer inseam, even these are a bit short with some of my tops. While I’m not overly modest or prudish I do like to appear to have bottoms on when in public.
Now they skim over my belly and don’t pull like the earliest versions. The pockets do flare out a bit but with the color contrast I write that off as a design feature and not a flaw. Least that’s the story I’m sticking to.
While I was pressing these pattern pieces I happened to burn or melt a bit of something off the iron, leaving a mark. Since this was a stash busting project there wasn’t more to cut from unlike the white linen and voile lined pair, which I did the same to. The iron has since been cleaned and I save my “testy” sewing tasks to more appropriate times like weekends while the kids are at activities. You can’t see it because it’s an invisible zipper but the zipper I pulled from my notions stash was also an indigo blue.
I had the vat primed and ready so I folded the assembled but not zippered or finished shorts and into the dye vat for a few dips it went. It’s subtle but I also like that it toned down the bright red that the linen was at the beginning. I will say after making these short a few times the ones that I have lined hang better, but that is the way of a well constructed garment. The fabric of these, being 100% linen wrinkle like crazy but they are very comfortable so I forgive them their slouch by the end of a few wears. Hope this helps anyone who is having issues with adjustments on their patterns, make clothing that feels as good as it looks.
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